| Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as
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| | corner bead should be applied to all
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| the professionals usually refer to the
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| | outside edges. Corner bead should be
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| task, can be done by the homeowner.
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| | nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the
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| However, it is usually best done with two
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| | framing.
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| or more people as it requires significant
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| | Taping and Mudding
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| lifting of heavy material. Mudding and
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| | Again start with the ceiling. Apply a
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| Taping can also be performed by the
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| | skim coat of joint compound over the
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| homeowner, however these tasks require
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| | surface of a seam using a 6" wide taping
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| some practice and artistry.
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| | knife. If the seam is wide, apply a
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| Measuring and Ordering Drywall
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| | liberal amount of joint compound to fill
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| Prior to actually hanging the drywall,
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| | it. While the Joint compound is still
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| the material first needs to be ordered
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| | wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the
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| and delivered. To determine how much
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| | skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure
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| material to order, measure all of the
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| | the seam is centered under the tape. Once
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| surface area, starting with the ceilings
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| | the tape has been installed, apply
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| and then the walls. Calculate the total
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| | additional Joint Compound over the tape,
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| square feet and divide by 32. The result
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| | again using the 6" wide taping knife.
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| should give you the number of 4'x 8'
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| | Continue this for all of the seams. Note:
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| sheets of drywall required for the job. I
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| | the tape will still be visible.
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| would also recommend adding another 5-10%
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| | Additional coats will eventually hide it.
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| to this figure to account for
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| | The inside corners are usually the most
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| inefficiencies. Drywall does come in
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| | tricky and require practice. Patience is
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| larger sheets, such as 4'x12', however
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| | the best advice and note that additional
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| for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these
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| | coats will be applied later to smooth out
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| larger sheets can become unwieldy and
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| | any imperfections.
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| maybe even impossible to bring into the
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| | Once the seams are done, using the 6"
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| existing home.
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| | wide taping knife, apply mud to all of
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| For bathrooms or other moist areas
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| | the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is
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| Greenboard should probably be used as
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| | all that is initially required.
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| this material is moisture resistance.
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| | Note: When applying the mud over the tape
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| For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is
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| | and screw/nail dimples, make sure all
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| to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas,
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| | excess material and uneven patches are
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| Concrete board should be used. The
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| | smoothed down with the blade. This will
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| concrete board is also referred to as
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| | reduce sanding later.
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| Wonderboard or Durock.
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| | Once the ceiling is done, you can move on
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| Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will
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| | to the walls. Repeat the same process,
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| also be required for Taping and Mudding.
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| | however with the outside corners just
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| Joint Compound typically comes
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| | apply a liberal coat of joint compound to
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| ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I
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| | the valley that is formed by the corner
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| would suggest 1-2 containers per 500
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| | bead. This valley typically represents
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| square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape
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| | the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of
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| is quite inexpensive so I would suggest
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| | the corner.
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| picking up 2 to 3 roles for most
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| | Once the first coat has been applied let
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| Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.
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| | it sit overnight or until it is dry,
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| Drywall screws or ringed nails will also
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| | prior to starting the second application
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| be required. Typically I use 1.25" length
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| | of Joint compound. Make sure to
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| screws or nails. Also, strips of corner
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| | completely clean off the taping knife,
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| bead will be required.
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| | the mud easel and any other containers or
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| Drywall Tools
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| | instruments that have mud on them prior
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| Prior to starting drywall installation,
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| | to finishing up for the day.
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| you need to obtain the proper tools. A
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| | Applying the Second Coat of Mud
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| Drywall Lift really comes in handy when
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| | After the first coat has thoroughly
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| hanging sheetrock/drywall on the
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| | dried, it is now time to apply the second
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| ceilings. You can rent Drywall Lifts at
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| | coat of mud. It is this coat that should
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| hardware or home improvement stores. If
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| | hide the tape.
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| your budget does not allow for this cost,
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| | Again, start with the ceiling. Using the
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| Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2"x 4"s.
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| | wider taping knife apply a generous
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| The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length
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| | amount of joint compound over the taped
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| such that they are just an inch or two
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| | seams as you want to build up the area
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| taller than the height of the ceiling and
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| | over the tape. Taking large strokes
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| have a cross beam that is approximately
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| | smooth the joint compound over the tape
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| 3' in width. Usually there are a couple
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| | applying more pressure to the side of the
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| of 45o angle braces connecting the
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| | taping knife further away from the tape.
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| crossbar to the main stem of the Jack.
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| | This will help to leave more mud over the
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| The Jack can then be used to hold up the
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| | tape. When complete, the mud should cover
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| drywall to the ceiling while it is
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| | an area that extends beyond the width of
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| screwed/nailed into place.
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| | the tape by 2 to 3 inches.
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| In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a
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| | After the seams have all been completed,
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| drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square,
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| | apply a second coat of mud over the screw
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| carpenters knife, drywall saw and a
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| | nail dimples. With this second coat,
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| keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw
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| | flare out the mud over the dimples such
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| is used for cutting around electrical
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| | that the diameter of the mudded area is
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| boxes.
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| | about 3-4 inches in diameter.
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| If mudding and taping are to be performed
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| | For the inside corners a Corner knife may
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| then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand
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| | come in handy. Corners involve a little
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| paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or
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| | artistry so again take your time. Apply a
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| pan will be necessary. For the taping
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| | generous amount of joint compound and
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| knifes you will need a 6" wide blade and
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| | then run the Corner knife down the corner
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| a 12" wide blade.
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| | starting from the top. Take long, even
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| Preparing the site for Drywall
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| | strokes. A 6" taping knife may also be
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| Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure
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| | helpful to smooth out any imperfections.
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| the building inspector has first approved
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| | For the outside corners, using the broad
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| the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and
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| | taping knife apply a generous amount of
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| Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor
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| | joint compound and flare out the material
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| barrier should be applied over the
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| | such that it extends out 6 inches or so
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| insulation on the outside walls if
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| | from the corner. Again, apply more
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| un-faced insulation was installed.
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| | pressure to the blade side that is
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| Frequently sheets of plastic are used for
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| | further away from the corner so that you
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| creating the vapor barrier. The plastic
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| | leave more mud nearer the outside corner.
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| is simply stapled to the framing,
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| | Once the second coat has been applied let
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| covering the insulation.
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| | it sit overnight or until it is dry,
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| Finally, inspect all of the framing
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| | prior to starting the final application
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| carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2" x
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| | of Joint compound. Make sure to
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| 4"s) are existent at each corner and
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| | completely clean off the taping knife,
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| header, that the framing is straight, and
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| | the mud easel and any other containers or
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| that the framed walls create smooth
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| | instruments that have mud on them prior
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| planes. In addition, the ceiling should
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| | to finishing up for the day.
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| have strapping applied (1" x 3" cross
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| | Applying the Final Coat of Mud
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| boards). Also, make sure metal protection
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| | After the first coat has thoroughly
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| plates have been installed to studding
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| | dried, it is now time to apply the final
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| where sheetrock screws or nails could
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| | coat of mud. It is this coat that
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| inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or
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| | requires the most artistry and the least
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| electrical wire.
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| | amount of joint compound. Here you are
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| Safety
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| | simply applying a final skim coat to the
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| Drywall installation is dirty, heavy
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| | already mudded areas.
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| work. The Gypsum in drywall can be
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| | Prior to applying the skim coat it is
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| irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses
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| | best to take your wide taping blade and
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| so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid
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| | lightly pass over the mudded surfaces.
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| breathing in the material. Gloves are
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| | This will remove any bumps or ridges.
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| also recommended to protect against sharp
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| | Again start with the ceiling seams and
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| blades.
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| | apply a small amount of joint compound
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| Installing Drywall
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| | using the broad taping knife. Again
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| Start with the ceiling as this will allow
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| | continue to flare out the seam by
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| the sheets on the walls to help hold the
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| | extending the mudded area such that about
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| sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall
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| | 6 inches resides on each side of the now
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| lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place
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| | invisible tape. Remember this is a skim
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| while screwing or nailing them to the
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| | coat so little mud is required. The
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| ceiling. The screws or nails should be
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| | purpose of this coat is to effectively
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| installed such that they are slightly
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| | fill in any lines or recessed areas.
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| recessed and create a small dimple
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| | After the seams have all been completed,
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| without breaking the paper. Screws or
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| | apply a final coat of mud over the screw
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| nails should be applied every 8 to 12
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| | nail dimples. With this second coat,
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| inches on each stud. Screws are typically
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| | flare out the mud over the dimples such
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| stronger and can be placed further apart,
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| | that the diameter of the mudded area is
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| e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the
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| | about 6-8 inches in diameter.
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| screws/nails to the edges of the drywall
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| | For the corners use the broad taping
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| first and then fill in the field
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| | knife and add just enough mud such that
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| afterwards.
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| | you can flare out the mudded surface area
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| Rows of drywall should be applied in a
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| | to about 8-12 inches, taking care to
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| staggered pattern. This will create an
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| | filling in any lines or dimples.
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| interlocked pattern that creates a
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| | Once the final coat has been applied let
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| tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.
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| | it rest overnight or until it is dry,
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| After the ceiling has been completed it
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| | Sanding
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| its time to move on to the walls. Drywall
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| | Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so
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| should be applied from the top down, with
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| | please uses goggles and a mask. I find
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| the sheets hung perpendicular to the
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| | it best to use a pole sander with an open
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| floor joists or studs. Again the rows
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| | screened sand paper material specifically
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| should be staggered. The bottom piece
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| | designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall
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| should sit about ½ inches from the
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| | mud.
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| sub-floor.
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| | Lightly sand all of the taped areas,
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| For purposes of efficiency and strength
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| | however concentrate sanding on the outer
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| it is best to apply the large sheets of
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| | edges of the mudded areas such that all
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| drywall over the doors and window
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| | seams and ridges are eliminated and blend
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| openings and cut out the excess later.
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| | into the main surface areas.
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| This will create stronger/cleaner looking
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| | Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the
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| walls and save significant time.
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| | dust and you are ready for priming and
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| Installing Corner bead
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| | painting the walls and texturing the
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| Once the drywall has been installed,
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| | ceilings.
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