| Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the | | | | framing. |
| professionals usually refer to the task, can be done | | | | Taping and Mudding |
| by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done | | | | Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint |
| with two or more people as it requires significant | | | | compound over the surface of a seam using a 6" |
| lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also | | | | wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal |
| be performed by the homeowner, however these | | | | amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint |
| tasks require some practice and artistry. | | | | compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over |
| Measuring and Ordering Drywall | | | | the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the |
| Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first | | | | seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has |
| needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine | | | | been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over |
| how much material to order, measure all of the | | | | the tape, again using the 6" wide taping knife. |
| surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the | | | | Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will |
| walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. | | | | still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it. |
| The result should give you the number of 4'x 8' | | | | The inside corners are usually the most tricky and |
| sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also | | | | require practice. Patience is the best advice and note |
| recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to | | | | that additional coats will be applied later to smooth |
| account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger | | | | out any imperfections. |
| sheets, such as 4'x12', however for a Do-it-Yourself | | | | Once the seams are done, using the 6" wide taping |
| homeowner these larger sheets can become | | | | knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A |
| unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the | | | | skim coat is all that is initially required. |
| existing home. | | | | Note: When applying the mud over the tape and |
| For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard | | | | screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and |
| should probably be used as this material is moisture | | | | uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. |
| resistance. | | | | This will reduce sanding later. |
| For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be | | | | Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the |
| applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board | | | | walls. Repeat the same process, however with the |
| should be used. The concrete board is also referred | | | | outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint |
| to as Wonderboard or Durock. | | | | compound to the valley that is formed by the corner |
| Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be | | | | bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 |
| required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound | | | | inches from the edge of the corner. |
| typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I | | | | Once the first coat has been applied let it sit |
| would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of | | | | overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second |
| drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I | | | | application of Joint compound. Make sure to |
| would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most | | | | completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel |
| Do-it-Yourself drywall projects. | | | | and any other containers or instruments that have |
| Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. | | | | mud on them prior to finishing up for the day. |
| Typically I use 1.25" length screws or nails. Also, strips | | | | Applying the Second Coat of Mud |
| of corner bead will be required. | | | | After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now |
| Drywall Tools | | | | time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat |
| Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to | | | | that should hide the tape. |
| obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in | | | | Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping |
| handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. | | | | knife apply a generous amount of joint compound |
| You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home | | | | over the taped seams as you want to build up the |
| improvement stores. If your budget does not allow | | | | area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the |
| for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2"x | | | | joint compound over the tape applying more |
| 4"s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such | | | | pressure to the side of the taping knife further away |
| that they are just an inch or two taller than the | | | | from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over |
| height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is | | | | the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an |
| approximately 3' in width. Usually there are a couple | | | | area that extends beyond the width of the tape by |
| of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the | | | | 2 to 3 inches. |
| main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used | | | | After the seams have all been completed, apply a |
| to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is | | | | second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. |
| screwed/nailed into place. | | | | With this second coat, flare out the mud over the |
| In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, | | | | dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area |
| hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and | | | | is about 3-4 inches in diameter. |
| a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used | | | | For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in |
| for cutting around electrical boxes. | | | | handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take |
| If mudding and taping are to be performed then | | | | your time. Apply a generous amount of joint |
| Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole | | | | compound and then run the Corner knife down the |
| sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For | | | | corner starting from the top. Take long, even |
| the taping knifes you will need a 6" wide blade and a | | | | strokes. A 6" taping knife may also be helpful to |
| 12" wide blade. | | | | smooth out any imperfections. |
| Preparing the site for Drywall | | | | For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife |
| Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the building | | | | apply a generous amount of joint compound and |
| inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, | | | | flare out the material such that it extends out 6 |
| Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier | | | | inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more |
| should be applied over the insulation on the outside | | | | pressure to the blade side that is further away from |
| walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently | | | | the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the |
| sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor | | | | outside corner. |
| barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, | | | | Once the second coat has been applied let it sit |
| covering the insulation. | | | | overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final |
| Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that | | | | application of Joint compound. Make sure to |
| nailers (e.g. 2" x 4"s) are existent at each corner and | | | | completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel |
| header, that the framing is straight, and that the | | | | and any other containers or instruments that have |
| framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the | | | | mud on them prior to finishing up for the day. |
| ceiling should have strapping applied (1" x 3" cross | | | | Applying the Final Coat of Mud |
| boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates | | | | After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now |
| have been installed to studding where sheetrock | | | | time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat |
| screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing | | | | that requires the most artistry and the least amount |
| pipes or electrical wire. | | | | of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a |
| Safety | | | | final skim coat to the already mudded areas. |
| Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum | | | | Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your |
| in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and | | | | wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded |
| sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid | | | | surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges. |
| breathing in the material. Gloves are also | | | | Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small |
| recommended to protect against sharp blades. | | | | amount of joint compound using the broad taping |
| Installing Drywall | | | | knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by |
| Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on | | | | extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches |
| the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use | | | | resides on each side of the now invisible tape. |
| the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place | | | | Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. |
| while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The | | | | The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any |
| screws or nails should be installed such that they are | | | | lines or recessed areas. |
| slightly recessed and create a small dimple without | | | | After the seams have all been completed, apply a |
| breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied | | | | final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With |
| every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are | | | | this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples |
| typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. | | | | such that the diameter of the mudded area is about |
| 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the | | | | 6-8 inches in diameter. |
| edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field | | | | For the corners use the broad taping knife and add |
| afterwards. | | | | just enough mud such that you can flare out the |
| Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered | | | | mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking |
| pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that | | | | care to filling in any lines or dimples. |
| creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall. | | | | Once the final coat has been applied let it rest |
| After the ceiling has been completed it its time to | | | | overnight or until it is dry, |
| move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from | | | | Sanding |
| the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to | | | | Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please |
| the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be | | | | uses goggles and a mask. I find it best to use a pole |
| staggered. The bottom piece should sit about | | | | sander with an open screened sand paper material |
| ½ inches from the sub-floor. | | | | specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall |
| For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to | | | | mud. |
| apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and | | | | Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however |
| window openings and cut out the excess later. This | | | | concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the |
| will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save | | | | mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are |
| significant time. | | | | eliminated and blend into the main surface areas. |
| Installing Corner bead | | | | Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and |
| Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead | | | | you are ready for priming and painting the walls and |
| should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead | | | | texturing the ceilings. |
| should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the | | | | |