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Article #4: Cleaning your handgun

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It seems that not everyone understands but it must be a very light coat to keep
the importance of keeping their handguns from increasing the pressures when
clean and well lubricated to insure firing. I have used the various teflon
proper functioning. While this may have containing oils (Tri-Flo and Breakfree)
been understandable back in the days when down to -20 deg. F when in Alaska. Some
the NRA 2700 was the primary match prefer to degrease the pistols under
course, it is not today. Back then, the these circumstances and use graphite
pistols were assembled very tightly and lubricant. I never had a problem with the
frequent disassembly for cleaning was teflon oils under these cold conditions
thought to decrease accuracy. Perhaps it and have never tried the graphite myself.
did. They also allowed "alibis", the Deleading
quaint custom of allowing you to reshoot Lead bullets are easy on the bore of the
a string when you had a malfunction. This pistol or revolver. But, they can leave
does not happen in the more modern forms lead deposits behind. Even "full metal
of competition. Neither does it happen in jacketed" bullets can do this if the base
a gunfight. A handgun must be kept clean is exposed lead as most are. I had a
and lubricated if it is to be relied on Glock .40 barrel brought to me because of
for self defense. the leading from FMJ bullets (about 5,000
The two basic handguns for self defense rounds), when the barrel was fully
are revolvers and semi-automatic pistols. cleaned, there was excessive pitting
They have differing cleaning under the leading and the barrel had to
requirements. I will deal with the be replaced. This is the problem which
pistols, then the revolvers. also is found in revolvers, but to an
The pistol should be "field stripped" even greater extent. I have just finished
after being fired. This, normally, means de-leading a revolver cylinder which
to remove the barrel and the slide from showed sufficient pitting in the chamber
the frame and separate the latter two so areas that I would not consider it safe
they may be cleaned individually. I to fire.
normally field strip my pistol and run a There are a number of methods of
wet patch through the bore, then wire de-leading that have been recommended
brush it using a rifle brush, if possible over the years. One of the older ones is
(.45 rifle and .35 rifle brushes are to fire several jacketed bullets through
longer and have more bearing surface). I the barrel to clean out the leading. This
then run another wet patch, followed by has a couple of problems. First,
two dry ones, followed by one having some depending on how much lead is involved,
form of degreaser on it (alcohol, brake pressures can be raised significantly.
cleaner, carb cleaner, etc.) The barrel This is particularly true in the magnum
then goes to the de-leading process if revolvers, but is also found in
lead bullets have been fired. This will non-magnum revolvers and pistols.
be covered below. After the barrel is Secondly, my tests indicate that what
cleaned, or while it is being de-leaded, happens is the layer of lead is spread
I clean the inside of the slide and the out, but not fully removed. The clumps of
upper and outer portions of the frame. lead are removed, leaving a uniform layer
This is normally done using wet and dry spread through out the bore. I do not
patches and Q-tips. Small scrapers may be recommend this procedure be used.
used to remove some of the more heavily Wire brushing has long been used to
caked powder residue such as builds up on reduce leading. It is not effective. Any
the breech face. Some prefer to use an wire brush that will remove the leading
old tooth brush. Then, the bore of the can also damage the non-leaded surfaces.
barrel is lightly oiled (in very humid or This is particularly true with stainless
salty climates, use RIG lightly in the steel brushes.
bore to prevent rusting) and the same Lead removal cloths and patches, such as
patch is used on the locking lugs of the Wipe Away, seem to work, but can be time
barrel. The barrel is re-assembled to the consuming. So is J-B Bore cleaner. But,
slide. One drop of oil goes on each rail there is an easy way to remove lead. One
of the frame for lubrication. Too much that can be working while you are
oil can attract dust and dirt. The pistol cleaning the rest of the gun. That is the
is re-assembled and the slide locked Outer's Foul Out system.
back. The area where the barrel is hidden The Outer's Foul Out II is a system I
by the slide is then lightly oiled and have been using for several years now. I
the action cycled several times by hand. have used it with both pistols and
Any excess oil at the rear of the slide revolvers and find it to be as effective
and frame is wiped off, then a silicone as any system I have used. And much
cloth is used to wipe down the gun. Once easier. To use it, you clean and degrease
a month, any pistol carried for self the barrel, put a rubber stopper
defense should be stripped fully and (supplied) into the end of the barrel,
detail cleaned. Parts should be inspected fill the barrel with Lead Out solution,
for wear or burrs, then very lightly insert a metal rod (having rubber O rings
oiled and the pistol re-assembled. In to prevent contact with the barrel) and
dusty or wet climates, you should detail attach the machine. It has a light that
strip the pistol more often. Pistols comes on when cleaning is taking place
which are blued and worn next to the body and another light that comes on when the
should be wiped off with a silicone rag process is finished. I use a small vise
each day to prevent rusting. ALWAYS to hold the barrel or revolver when being
UNLOAD A PISTOL BEFORE WIPING IT DOWN. cleaned. Some form of stabilization is
Revolvers are both easier and more required to ensure the part being cleaned
difficult to clean. Easier because you do does not tip over and spill the solvent
not have to disassemble them for normal out. When clean, you disassemble the rig,
cleaning. More difficult because, if lead pour out the solvent, remove the stopper
bullets have been used, the cylinder must and run a clean patch through the bore.
be removed from the frame, stripped and It will come out black from the powder
de-leaded. You start cleaning by opening fouling that was trapped under the
the cylinder to make sure it is unloaded. leading. The rod may have clumps of lead
Then, run a wet patch through the barrel attached in severely leaded bores. This
and each chamber of the cylinder. Run a can be wiped off. The thin layer of lead
pistol brush through the barrel and a on the rod may be sanded off gently.
rifle brush through each chamber. Run After the bore has been cleaned, a thin
another wet patch through the barrel and coat of oil or RIG should be applied.
chambers, and clean the rear of the With revolvers, the cylinder should also
barrel and the standing breech (back area be cleaned. A great deal of lead builds
of the frame behind the cylinder). Again up in the front portion of the chambers.
a tooth brush may be used to advantage. This is seldom removed properly and, over
Then, dry the barrel and chambers, run a time, rusting can take place under the
slightly oily patch through them and wipe lead. To clean the cylinder properly
down the outside of the revolver with a requires it be removed from the revolver,
silicone cloth. Blued steel revolvers stripped, cleaned with powder solvent,
should be wiped down daily if worn degreased, then each chamber cleaned
regularly. UNLOAD A REVOLVER BEFORE separately. This can be a time consuming
WIPING IT DOWN. process. On the revolver I just cleaned,
Cleaning solvents and oils with years of accumulated leading, it
Almost any good cleaning solvent will took a full day to clean some of them.
work fine for removing powder residue. With two of the chambers, sufficient
This includes the many "powder solvents" pitting was found to make me doubt it
as well as some non-traditional ones like would be safe to shoot. The cost of
brake and carb cleaner. I have used purchasing a new cylinder and fitting it
Hoppe's Number 9 for almost 40 years with is over half the value of the revolver.
complete satisfaction. I have also used Far more expensive than a Foul Out II, AC
Shooter's Choice, etc. and do not have adapter, and regular cleaning would be.
any real preference. Hoppes smells better In the final analysis, proper cleaning of
to me. a self defense pistol is an often
Any good quality gun oil will do fine overlooked requirement. Proper care and
under most circumstances. In certain cleaning will both protect your
cases, a light teflon grease may work investment and may save your life. Any
better on the rails of a pistol. In humid pistol or revolver used for self defense
or salty climates, Rust Inhibiting Grease must be practiced with regularly and kept
(RIG) works better to protect the bore of clean.
a pistol or revolver (and the chambers),






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