| It seems that not everyone understands the | | | | (and the chambers), but it must be a very light coat |
| importance of keeping their handguns clean and well | | | | to keep from increasing the pressures when firing. I |
| lubricated to insure proper functioning. While this may | | | | have used the various teflon containing oils (Tri-Flo |
| have been understandable back in the days when the | | | | and Breakfree) down to -20 deg. F when in Alaska. |
| NRA 2700 was the primary match course, it is not | | | | Some prefer to degrease the pistols under these |
| today. Back then, the pistols were assembled very | | | | circumstances and use graphite lubricant. I never had |
| tightly and frequent disassembly for cleaning was | | | | a problem with the teflon oils under these cold |
| thought to decrease accuracy. Perhaps it did. They | | | | conditions and have never tried the graphite myself. |
| also allowed "alibis", the quaint custom of allowing you | | | | Deleading |
| to reshoot a string when you had a malfunction. This | | | | Lead bullets are easy on the bore of the pistol or |
| does not happen in the more modern forms of | | | | revolver. But, they can leave lead deposits behind. |
| competition. Neither does it happen in a gunfight. A | | | | Even "full metal jacketed" bullets can do this if the |
| handgun must be kept clean and lubricated if it is to | | | | base is exposed lead as most are. I had a Glock .40 |
| be relied on for self defense. | | | | barrel brought to me because of the leading from |
| The two basic handguns for self defense are | | | | FMJ bullets (about 5,000 rounds), when the barrel |
| revolvers and semi-automatic pistols. They have | | | | was fully cleaned, there was excessive pitting under |
| differing cleaning requirements. I will deal with the | | | | the leading and the barrel had to be replaced. This is |
| pistols, then the revolvers. | | | | the problem which also is found in revolvers, but to |
| The pistol should be "field stripped" after being fired. | | | | an even greater extent. I have just finished |
| This, normally, means to remove the barrel and the | | | | de-leading a revolver cylinder which showed sufficient |
| slide from the frame and separate the latter two so | | | | pitting in the chamber areas that I would not consider |
| they may be cleaned individually. I normally field strip | | | | it safe to fire. |
| my pistol and run a wet patch through the bore, then | | | | There are a number of methods of de-leading that |
| wire brush it using a rifle brush, if possible (.45 rifle | | | | have been recommended over the years. One of the |
| and .35 rifle brushes are longer and have more | | | | older ones is to fire several jacketed bullets through |
| bearing surface). I then run another wet patch, | | | | the barrel to clean out the leading. This has a couple |
| followed by two dry ones, followed by one having | | | | of problems. First, depending on how much lead is |
| some form of degreaser on it (alcohol, brake cleaner, | | | | involved, pressures can be raised significantly. This is |
| carb cleaner, etc.) The barrel then goes to the | | | | particularly true in the magnum revolvers, but is also |
| de-leading process if lead bullets have been fired. This | | | | found in non-magnum revolvers and pistols. Secondly, |
| will be covered below. After the barrel is cleaned, or | | | | my tests indicate that what happens is the layer of |
| while it is being de-leaded, I clean the inside of the | | | | lead is spread out, but not fully removed. The clumps |
| slide and the upper and outer portions of the frame. | | | | of lead are removed, leaving a uniform layer spread |
| This is normally done using wet and dry patches and | | | | through out the bore. I do not recommend this |
| Q-tips. Small scrapers may be used to remove some | | | | procedure be used. |
| of the more heavily caked powder residue such as | | | | Wire brushing has long been used to reduce leading. |
| builds up on the breech face. Some prefer to use an | | | | It is not effective. Any wire brush that will remove |
| old tooth brush. Then, the bore of the barrel is lightly | | | | the leading can also damage the non-leaded surfaces. |
| oiled (in very humid or salty climates, use RIG lightly | | | | This is particularly true with stainless steel brushes. |
| in the bore to prevent rusting) and the same patch is | | | | Lead removal cloths and patches, such as Wipe |
| used on the locking lugs of the barrel. The barrel is | | | | Away, seem to work, but can be time consuming. So |
| re-assembled to the slide. One drop of oil goes on | | | | is J-B Bore cleaner. But, there is an easy way to |
| each rail of the frame for lubrication. Too much oil | | | | remove lead. One that can be working while you are |
| can attract dust and dirt. The pistol is re-assembled | | | | cleaning the rest of the gun. That is the Outer's Foul |
| and the slide locked back. The area where the barrel | | | | Out system. |
| is hidden by the slide is then lightly oiled and the | | | | The Outer's Foul Out II is a system I have been |
| action cycled several times by hand. Any excess oil | | | | using for several years now. I have used it with both |
| at the rear of the slide and frame is wiped off, then | | | | pistols and revolvers and find it to be as effective as |
| a silicone cloth is used to wipe down the gun. Once a | | | | any system I have used. And much easier. To use it, |
| month, any pistol carried for self defense should be | | | | you clean and degrease the barrel, put a rubber |
| stripped fully and detail cleaned. Parts should be | | | | stopper (supplied) into the end of the barrel, fill the |
| inspected for wear or burrs, then very lightly oiled | | | | barrel with Lead Out solution, insert a metal rod |
| and the pistol re-assembled. In dusty or wet climates, | | | | (having rubber O rings to prevent contact with the |
| you should detail strip the pistol more often. Pistols | | | | barrel) and attach the machine. It has a light that |
| which are blued and worn next to the body should | | | | comes on when cleaning is taking place and another |
| be wiped off with a silicone rag each day to prevent | | | | light that comes on when the process is finished. I |
| rusting. ALWAYS UNLOAD A PISTOL BEFORE | | | | use a small vise to hold the barrel or revolver when |
| WIPING IT DOWN. | | | | being cleaned. Some form of stabilization is required |
| Revolvers are both easier and more difficult to clean. | | | | to ensure the part being cleaned does not tip over |
| Easier because you do not have to disassemble them | | | | and spill the solvent out. When clean, you disassemble |
| for normal cleaning. More difficult because, if lead | | | | the rig, pour out the solvent, remove the stopper |
| bullets have been used, the cylinder must be | | | | and run a clean patch through the bore. It will come |
| removed from the frame, stripped and de-leaded. | | | | out black from the powder fouling that was trapped |
| You start cleaning by opening the cylinder to make | | | | under the leading. The rod may have clumps of lead |
| sure it is unloaded. Then, run a wet patch through | | | | attached in severely leaded bores. This can be wiped |
| the barrel and each chamber of the cylinder. Run a | | | | off. The thin layer of lead on the rod may be sanded |
| pistol brush through the barrel and a rifle brush | | | | off gently. After the bore has been cleaned, a thin |
| through each chamber. Run another wet patch | | | | coat of oil or RIG should be applied. |
| through the barrel and chambers, and clean the rear | | | | With revolvers, the cylinder should also be cleaned. A |
| of the barrel and the standing breech (back area of | | | | great deal of lead builds up in the front portion of the |
| the frame behind the cylinder). Again a tooth brush | | | | chambers. This is seldom removed properly and, over |
| may be used to advantage. Then, dry the barrel and | | | | time, rusting can take place under the lead. To clean |
| chambers, run a slightly oily patch through them and | | | | the cylinder properly requires it be removed from the |
| wipe down the outside of the revolver with a silicone | | | | revolver, stripped, cleaned with powder solvent, |
| cloth. Blued steel revolvers should be wiped down | | | | degreased, then each chamber cleaned separately. |
| daily if worn regularly. UNLOAD A REVOLVER | | | | This can be a time consuming process. On the |
| BEFORE WIPING IT DOWN. | | | | revolver I just cleaned, with years of accumulated |
| Cleaning solvents and oils | | | | leading, it took a full day to clean some of them. |
| Almost any good cleaning solvent will work fine for | | | | With two of the chambers, sufficient pitting was |
| removing powder residue. This includes the many | | | | found to make me doubt it would be safe to shoot. |
| "powder solvents" as well as some non-traditional | | | | The cost of purchasing a new cylinder and fitting it is |
| ones like brake and carb cleaner. I have used Hoppe's | | | | over half the value of the revolver. Far more |
| Number 9 for almost 40 years with complete | | | | expensive than a Foul Out II, AC adapter, and regular |
| satisfaction. I have also used Shooter's Choice, etc. | | | | cleaning would be. |
| and do not have any real preference. Hoppes smells | | | | In the final analysis, proper cleaning of a self defense |
| better to me. | | | | pistol is an often overlooked requirement. Proper care |
| Any good quality gun oil will do fine under most | | | | and cleaning will both protect your investment and |
| circumstances. In certain cases, a light teflon grease | | | | may save your life. Any pistol or revolver used for |
| may work better on the rails of a pistol. In humid or | | | | self defense must be practiced with regularly and |
| salty climates, Rust Inhibiting Grease (RIG) works | | | | kept clean. |
| better to protect the bore of a pistol or revolver | | | | |