| It seems that not everyone understands
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| | but it must be a very light coat to keep
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| the importance of keeping their handguns
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| | from increasing the pressures when
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| clean and well lubricated to insure
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| | firing. I have used the various teflon
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| proper functioning. While this may have
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| | containing oils (Tri-Flo and Breakfree)
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| been understandable back in the days when
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| | down to -20 deg. F when in Alaska. Some
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| the NRA 2700 was the primary match
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| | prefer to degrease the pistols under
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| course, it is not today. Back then, the
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| | these circumstances and use graphite
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| pistols were assembled very tightly and
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| | lubricant. I never had a problem with the
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| frequent disassembly for cleaning was
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| | teflon oils under these cold conditions
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| thought to decrease accuracy. Perhaps it
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| | and have never tried the graphite myself.
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| did. They also allowed "alibis", the
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| | Deleading
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| quaint custom of allowing you to reshoot
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| | Lead bullets are easy on the bore of the
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| a string when you had a malfunction. This
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| | pistol or revolver. But, they can leave
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| does not happen in the more modern forms
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| | lead deposits behind. Even "full metal
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| of competition. Neither does it happen in
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| | jacketed" bullets can do this if the base
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| a gunfight. A handgun must be kept clean
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| | is exposed lead as most are. I had a
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| and lubricated if it is to be relied on
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| | Glock .40 barrel brought to me because of
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| for self defense.
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| | the leading from FMJ bullets (about 5,000
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| The two basic handguns for self defense
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| | rounds), when the barrel was fully
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| are revolvers and semi-automatic pistols.
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| | cleaned, there was excessive pitting
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| They have differing cleaning
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| | under the leading and the barrel had to
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| requirements. I will deal with the
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| | be replaced. This is the problem which
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| pistols, then the revolvers.
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| | also is found in revolvers, but to an
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| The pistol should be "field stripped"
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| | even greater extent. I have just finished
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| after being fired. This, normally, means
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| | de-leading a revolver cylinder which
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| to remove the barrel and the slide from
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| | showed sufficient pitting in the chamber
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| the frame and separate the latter two so
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| | areas that I would not consider it safe
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| they may be cleaned individually. I
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| | to fire.
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| normally field strip my pistol and run a
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| | There are a number of methods of
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| wet patch through the bore, then wire
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| | de-leading that have been recommended
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| brush it using a rifle brush, if possible
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| | over the years. One of the older ones is
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| (.45 rifle and .35 rifle brushes are
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| | to fire several jacketed bullets through
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| longer and have more bearing surface). I
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| | the barrel to clean out the leading. This
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| then run another wet patch, followed by
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| | has a couple of problems. First,
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| two dry ones, followed by one having some
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| | depending on how much lead is involved,
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| form of degreaser on it (alcohol, brake
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| | pressures can be raised significantly.
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| cleaner, carb cleaner, etc.) The barrel
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| | This is particularly true in the magnum
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| then goes to the de-leading process if
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| | revolvers, but is also found in
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| lead bullets have been fired. This will
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| | non-magnum revolvers and pistols.
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| be covered below. After the barrel is
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| | Secondly, my tests indicate that what
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| cleaned, or while it is being de-leaded,
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| | happens is the layer of lead is spread
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| I clean the inside of the slide and the
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| | out, but not fully removed. The clumps of
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| upper and outer portions of the frame.
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| | lead are removed, leaving a uniform layer
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| This is normally done using wet and dry
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| | spread through out the bore. I do not
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| patches and Q-tips. Small scrapers may be
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| | recommend this procedure be used.
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| used to remove some of the more heavily
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| | Wire brushing has long been used to
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| caked powder residue such as builds up on
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| | reduce leading. It is not effective. Any
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| the breech face. Some prefer to use an
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| | wire brush that will remove the leading
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| old tooth brush. Then, the bore of the
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| | can also damage the non-leaded surfaces.
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| barrel is lightly oiled (in very humid or
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| | This is particularly true with stainless
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| salty climates, use RIG lightly in the
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| | steel brushes.
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| bore to prevent rusting) and the same
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| | Lead removal cloths and patches, such as
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| patch is used on the locking lugs of the
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| | Wipe Away, seem to work, but can be time
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| barrel. The barrel is re-assembled to the
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| | consuming. So is J-B Bore cleaner. But,
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| slide. One drop of oil goes on each rail
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| | there is an easy way to remove lead. One
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| of the frame for lubrication. Too much
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| | that can be working while you are
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| oil can attract dust and dirt. The pistol
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| | cleaning the rest of the gun. That is the
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| is re-assembled and the slide locked
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| | Outer's Foul Out system.
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| back. The area where the barrel is hidden
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| | The Outer's Foul Out II is a system I
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| by the slide is then lightly oiled and
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| | have been using for several years now. I
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| the action cycled several times by hand.
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| | have used it with both pistols and
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| Any excess oil at the rear of the slide
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| | revolvers and find it to be as effective
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| and frame is wiped off, then a silicone
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| | as any system I have used. And much
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| cloth is used to wipe down the gun. Once
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| | easier. To use it, you clean and degrease
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| a month, any pistol carried for self
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| | the barrel, put a rubber stopper
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| defense should be stripped fully and
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| | (supplied) into the end of the barrel,
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| detail cleaned. Parts should be inspected
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| | fill the barrel with Lead Out solution,
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| for wear or burrs, then very lightly
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| | insert a metal rod (having rubber O rings
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| oiled and the pistol re-assembled. In
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| | to prevent contact with the barrel) and
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| dusty or wet climates, you should detail
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| | attach the machine. It has a light that
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| strip the pistol more often. Pistols
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| | comes on when cleaning is taking place
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| which are blued and worn next to the body
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| | and another light that comes on when the
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| should be wiped off with a silicone rag
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| | process is finished. I use a small vise
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| each day to prevent rusting. ALWAYS
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| | to hold the barrel or revolver when being
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| UNLOAD A PISTOL BEFORE WIPING IT DOWN.
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| | cleaned. Some form of stabilization is
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| Revolvers are both easier and more
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| | required to ensure the part being cleaned
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| difficult to clean. Easier because you do
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| | does not tip over and spill the solvent
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| not have to disassemble them for normal
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| | out. When clean, you disassemble the rig,
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| cleaning. More difficult because, if lead
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| | pour out the solvent, remove the stopper
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| bullets have been used, the cylinder must
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| | and run a clean patch through the bore.
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| be removed from the frame, stripped and
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| | It will come out black from the powder
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| de-leaded. You start cleaning by opening
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| | fouling that was trapped under the
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| the cylinder to make sure it is unloaded.
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| | leading. The rod may have clumps of lead
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| Then, run a wet patch through the barrel
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| | attached in severely leaded bores. This
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| and each chamber of the cylinder. Run a
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| | can be wiped off. The thin layer of lead
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| pistol brush through the barrel and a
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| | on the rod may be sanded off gently.
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| rifle brush through each chamber. Run
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| | After the bore has been cleaned, a thin
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| another wet patch through the barrel and
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| | coat of oil or RIG should be applied.
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| chambers, and clean the rear of the
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| | With revolvers, the cylinder should also
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| barrel and the standing breech (back area
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| | be cleaned. A great deal of lead builds
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| of the frame behind the cylinder). Again
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| | up in the front portion of the chambers.
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| a tooth brush may be used to advantage.
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| | This is seldom removed properly and, over
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| Then, dry the barrel and chambers, run a
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| | time, rusting can take place under the
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| slightly oily patch through them and wipe
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| | lead. To clean the cylinder properly
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| down the outside of the revolver with a
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| | requires it be removed from the revolver,
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| silicone cloth. Blued steel revolvers
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| | stripped, cleaned with powder solvent,
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| should be wiped down daily if worn
| |
| | degreased, then each chamber cleaned
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| regularly. UNLOAD A REVOLVER BEFORE
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| | separately. This can be a time consuming
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| WIPING IT DOWN.
| |
| | process. On the revolver I just cleaned,
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| Cleaning solvents and oils
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| | with years of accumulated leading, it
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| Almost any good cleaning solvent will
| |
| | took a full day to clean some of them.
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| work fine for removing powder residue.
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| | With two of the chambers, sufficient
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| This includes the many "powder solvents"
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| | pitting was found to make me doubt it
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| as well as some non-traditional ones like
| |
| | would be safe to shoot. The cost of
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| brake and carb cleaner. I have used
| |
| | purchasing a new cylinder and fitting it
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| Hoppe's Number 9 for almost 40 years with
| |
| | is over half the value of the revolver.
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| complete satisfaction. I have also used
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| | Far more expensive than a Foul Out II, AC
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| Shooter's Choice, etc. and do not have
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| | adapter, and regular cleaning would be.
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| any real preference. Hoppes smells better
| |
| | In the final analysis, proper cleaning of
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| to me.
| |
| | a self defense pistol is an often
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| Any good quality gun oil will do fine
| |
| | overlooked requirement. Proper care and
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| under most circumstances. In certain
| |
| | cleaning will both protect your
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| cases, a light teflon grease may work
| |
| | investment and may save your life. Any
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| better on the rails of a pistol. In humid
| |
| | pistol or revolver used for self defense
|
| or salty climates, Rust Inhibiting Grease
| |
| | must be practiced with regularly and kept
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| (RIG) works better to protect the bore of
| |
| | clean.
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| a pistol or revolver (and the chambers),
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| |
|
